Our love affair with the Algarve began five years ago when we arrived in the southernmost region of Portugal to walk the Via Algarviana.
I’d run the London Marathon the week before we set off, so I wasn’t unduly concerned with daily distances of up to 23 miles in blistering temperatures with virtually no shade. I was soon regretting my overconfidence. The 19-mile section from São Bartolomeu de Messines to Silves will remain in my memory forever as the day we nearly perished … from dehydration. Like many who are unused to hiking in high temperatures, we’d badly underestimated the amount of fluid we needed. Another mistake was arrogantly assuming everyone would speak English: they didn’t.
Five months later, we returned to the Algarve to walk the Via Algarviana link routes and an alternative finish via Aljezur and the Rota Vicentina – another long-distance trail exploring Portugal’s windswept Atlantic coast.
Wintering in the Algarve
Our positive experiences hiking in the Algarve meant it was our first-choice destination when we decided to spend our first winter abroad.
The second winter we stayed for five months and never ran out of places to walk. We headed west and hiked the less populated coast favoured by surfers.
Leaving Wales
It was always my dream to live in a climate where you could spend most of your time outdoors. Harri took a little more persuading – he speaks Welsh and loves the Welsh mountains – but in the end it was the prospect of year-round hiking which won him round.
A chance encounter on the cliffs above Praia Marinha – considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world – meant we now had friends in the eastern Algarve. I often hopped on a train to meet Denise and Geoff and hit the walking trails in the Ria Formosa Natural Park. Here there are no hills, just mile after mile of level walking with spectacular views of the barrier islands, salt pans and marshes, all teeming with marine birds.
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You have a very interesting life. We love adventure and I love to walk. A former runner, I find walking just as invigorating at the young age of 74.