Where did I get the gumption to travel solo, in a country where I spoke only the basics of the language? I don’t know. What were my qualifications? Resilience, a spirit of adventure, zeal, perseverance, flexibility. Notice, nothing there about bike handling skills, cardio capacity, speed, strength. I had barely traveled in the past 30 years, never outside of the US or Canada. Thirty years had passed since my hiking and backpacking days.
From Bielle, there were three ways to get to St. Savin, though I really only considered two of those choices. Up Col d’Aubisque, reputed to be a huge bear of a difficult climb, then a very slight descent, up again to Col du Soulor, and down to my destination. Or around, riding down the valley into the foothills, then a bit southeast to the next valley, and back up to St. Savin. That route included a long stretch on a voie verte, what we call in English a mixed-use path. It was a longer ride, definitely more miles, but much less climbing. It would take me through the famous town of Lourdes. I didn’t know whether that was a good thing or not. It was the practical, less challenging route and I chose it for those reasons. As I just mentioned, I wasn’t very confident about my climbing skills.
Earlier that day, immediately after breakfast, probably about 8:30, I was on my bike. That doesn’t sound early here in the US, but breakfast in hotels or chambres d’hotes (bed and breakfasts) in France is rarely available before 8:00. My route took me through pretty countryside, delightful riding, the mountains receding behind me. I didn’t like that. The receding part. Especially didn’t like it with the memory of Marie Blanc so fresh. Late morning, I came to a crossroads, and started thinking about lunch. There was a village ahead, and after that, a few miles on, a larger, more traveled road, where I planned to turn back south, towards the border with Spain.
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Wow: a great way to see France and another part of the world. The lunches sound incredible because I'm sure they bring all the senses into play...food that excites the taste buds, great views, lots of beautiful sounds, and a great focus on the feeling of being alive with a difficult but pleasurable afternoon still to come.
I am sure you will have many more great lunches in the near future.