Categories: Retirement locations

Retirement in India: The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

With the down turn of the American economy and a big hit to our retirement funds my husband and I decided to outsource our retirement. I began reading everything on the Intranet about the best places to retire. Out of the blue, my India born husband said why not India. I did some reading and said let’s go. English is widely spoken and Hindi is my husband’s first language. It took almost a year before we obtained our visas, OCI (Overseas Citizen of India) for my husband. Once he was able to obtain his OCI I was able to obtain my PIO (Person of Indian Origin), though I am Caucasian, based on our marriage. His is a lifetime visa and it affords him all the rights of Indian citizenship, except the right to vote, mine is good for fifteen years. Once that was done we secured pet passports for our two dogs. That was the most difficult. In the meantime traveling on a tourist visa my husband spent two months in India looking for an uncrowded area and suitable place to rent. His search was going nowhere until he enlisted help from his nephew. They found a three bedroom house in Bhimtal on the lake. The photos he took were beautiful. I spent a lot of time reading Indian expat blogs.

In January 2013 we packed up our dogs, electronics and a few clothes and started our adventure. Living in India is not for the faint of heart. It would have been very difficult without the assistance and knowledge of family. When we arrived to take possession of our rental home we were told it was not ready but would be soon. I wondered what soon meant in Indian time. We were shown another rental, basically an apartment that was dark, musty and dirty. We were looking at a bait and switch. We refused the apartment. After spending three weeks in a hotel room and the house still not ready to rent, we finally found our first rental cottage. In order to find a rental one must ask around. It’s very hard to find anything here with a Google search. The cottage was a two story, two bedroom, one Indian and one Western bathroom, furnished duplex structure located in Bhowali, which is located in the foothills of the Himalayas. The rent was $270.00 USD per month. Next door to our complex was a large multi-story apartment complex. At the time we did not think too much about it. It turned out that this was more of a hotel with people arriving at all hours of the day and night. As soon as a car arrived they honked their horns announcing their arrival. Then came the loud greetings that went on in the parking lot. This happened almost every night, sometimes two and three o’clock in the morning.

Thanks to our cook/housekeeper we found our present two bedroom two Western bathroom flat in Ghorakhal, which is about three miles from our first location. Our rent, $325.00 per month includes water and electricity. From our large balcony we have a breathtaking view of the mountains with Bhimtal Lake in the distance. I love it here. Early in the morning one can hear the temple bells waking up the Gods. In the summer we hear marriage music coming from many locations in the mountains. It is uncrowded and has many places to walk. It is said that the Himalayas are the homes of the Gods. There are temples scattered everywhere. We came very close to buying property here.

It is very affordable to live here. We spend about $10.00 per week on groceries. We are vegetarian. Cooking gas runs about $5.00 every 3 months. We have no need of a car. Taxis are available and run around $5.00 to the market and back. This includes an hour wait time and getting your bags carried inside the apartment. If we don’t care to go to the market, we send one of the locals on their motor cycle with a list. The cost is $1.50. A taxi for the day, depending on how far you wish to travel runs around $30.00. A full time cook/ housekeeper will run you $65.00 per month. Our Wi-Fi service runs $25.00 per month. We see our Doctor in the office for $2.00 or a house call will run us $4.00. Good medical care is available and medications are less expensive than at Walmart in the USA. I love the variety of locally grown fresh fruits and vegetables that are available to us here. Our state Uttarakhand is a non GMO state. We are able to maintain a much healthier lifestyle here. When we first came, my diabetic husband required insulin and oral medication twice a day. He no longer requires insulin and controls his sugar with ¼ of his oral medication. We both lost 35 pounds without effort.

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Cynthia Singh

Growing up in Small Town America in the home that my ancestors built instilled an appreciation of my American roots and love of Country. The blood of Roger Williams, defender of religious freedom and founder of Rhode Island, Jonathan Alder, pioneer captured and raised by the Shawnee Indians, Stephen Foster, the father of American music and William Travis, commander of the Alamo run through my veins. I grew up in this land of opportunity, America. I married, raised a family and prospered. I achieved the American Dream. That dream is no longer as possible for my grandchildren. Our country is morally and economically in decline. My retirement investments have lost half their value. My husband, born in India and I have decided to outsource our retirement to India. As my husband puts it, we are going home. Check out my White Indian Grandmother website. You can also reach me by email.

View Comments

  • I am thinking of retiring in Uttarakhand. please suggest some place and the price of some decent accomodation which i can purchase. i am from bombay.

  • Ghorakhal, Uttarkhand, is a beautiful place. I have not been there but I have seen pictures of it. But what would bother me, if my wife and I were to live there , is its distance from Bangalore, our home town. That apart, thank you for this excellent article; everything you have written here (friendly, beautiful people, corrupt government, the dirt and filth, lack of sanitation and clean water for most Indians) are all, unfortunately, true.

  • I am of Polish origin and would like to retire in India, Vrindavan, I am not married (40) and got early retirement after being a teacher in Poland

  • This is a message for Wiktor. I also would like to retire in India too and have been to Vrindavan. I am single Indian woman living in Australia. I am a Hare Krishna devotee and would like to meet like minded spiritual people for settling down . My email address is kalpanadevi41@yahoo.co.uk
    thanks.

  • It has been more than one and a half years since this was posted. It will be nice to have a follow up.

    I just realized you have moved back. Are you settled now or you wish you had sweated it out?

    Thanks

  • I live in united states (citizen) here from the last 16 years. I am 42 years old.
    Recently I visited India for 4 months ( including Mathura/varindavan/Rishikesh) and realized India could be permanent retirement place But I really liked more Rishikesh than Varindavan.

    In Rishikesh, I stayed for 1 month. Weather is good even in summer as well as pollution level is very low, right in mountains. People are much nicer and honest.

    I am planning to buy one home in Rishikesh now. I feel Rishikesh could be permanent place for me for my rest of my life. There are lot of Ashrams in Rishikesh area and of course GANGA.
    I have been to Badrinath temple 14 times.

    I feel there are lot of places in Mountains to explore once I settle in Rishikesh.

    Thanks
    Ashok Bansal

  • I am (44) also thinking/planning to move to India and focus more on spiritual/quality life. Vrindavan would be perfect for me as i am Hare Krishna devotee but i am also looking at Mayapur in West Bengal and other places. I don't think buying condo is the best idea at this moment. Rent is cheap and gives me a lot of flexibility to move around. Biggest problem is long term Visa as i am not of Indian origins.
    I hope you love living there. i just got back form India and miss it already :(

  • 1. Rent , don't buy. As a rule of thumb, indian prices are 25% of New York/ Sydney / Dubai.
    Ignore the big cities, head to the tier 2/3 towns. Keep an eye on pollution levels and water availability.
    2. Go vegetarian and cook your meals. Invest in a rice cooker. Rice and lentils are staples here, if you adopt this diet, your dollar will go the extra mile.
    3. Research and invest in the local stock market. If you can't be bothered, pick 3 mutual funds and put a small percentage of your savings. Hold it for more than a year and your gains are tax free.

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Cynthia Singh

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