Living a Healthy Life on the ‘Nature Island’: Dominica, West Indies

While I am sustained by eating well on wonderfully fresh foods, I expend those calories during regular walks and occasional long hikes. There is nothing like hoofing it uphill to burn off those extra calories – treadmills are not needed here! And apart from being at sea level, there are inclines at every turn! It’s so easy to stay in shape while inhaling the purest air imaginable up in Dominica’s pristine forests.

Serious fitness buffs should definitely try out the Waitukubuli National Trail, a 185 kilometer (115 mile) – long trail that criss-crosses the island from north to south and is broken up into 14 segments. Its maintained tracks pass through some exceptional terrain and topography – remote rainforest, steep mountains, powerful rivers, rocky shorelines, historic sites and indigenous villages. (I’ve completed 11 segments at this writing and intend to finish the other three during 2014!)

But if you’re overwhelmed just reading about this unique trail, which is the only one of its kind in the Caribbean, I would encourage you to consider numerous other options in Dominica’s phenomenal outdoors. There are lots of little hikes with stunning scenery and easier trekking – such as the 20 minute uphill track called ‘Jack’s Walk’, which is located in Roseau’s beautiful Botanical Gardens. The view over the city is breathtaking – especially when the sun is setting. And every village has feeder roads that lead to gardens at higher elevations where one can admire the view and engage in conversation with a farmer too. Don’t be surprised if you’re offered something right off of the vine!

After an intense day on the trail or a busy day running around Roseau, I always appreciate a little down-time to either allow sore muscles to recover or to melt away any kind of stress. All the natural hot springs in the Roseau Valley are well-known to me. They are all found about 15 minutes inland from the city, and as they are in such close proximity, they are well used by many people. My favorites include Tia’s or Screw’s in the village of Wotten Waven and the lovely award-winning Papillote Wilderness Retreat near Trafalgar. When I go there for an open air massage and organic lunch and a long soak in flowing mineral waters, I call it a “spa day!”

Yes, it does get very hot here sometimes, but it’s always easy to find a cool place to hang out at higher elevations. A “river bath’ is a refreshing way to spend part of a day – whether in a meditative mood or with friends and a picnic. It’s been said that Dominica has 365 of them – one for every day of the year. During the rainy season, I think there are even more!

If you think that Dominica is without beaches, then you’re wrong! There are some lovely ones all around the island’s shores. Of course, it’s calmer on the Caribbean side. The volcanic sand is darker, but it’s definitely not dirty! I like to do a little “lime” (West Indian for hanging out) at Mero Beach, where I also devour delicious organic lunches in the cheery ambiance of Romance Café. I also frequent Champagne Beach, which is close to my home. It’s famous for the bubbles that rise from volcanic vents on the sea floor. While I have not snorkeled there for some time, many people do! There’s also “the north” – in the shelter of Prince Rupert’s Bay – Coconut and Purple Turtle are wonderful places to enjoy the tranquil seaside near Portsmouth. In the northeast, plentiful secluded beaches close to the village of Calibishie are revitalizing, with brisk breezes coming in off of the Atlantic. While the surf can be strong, one can definitely admire the strength of the powerful waves from the shoreline.

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Gwenith Whitford

Gwen is a Canadian expatriate who has lived on Dominica, the Nature Island since the late 1990's. She relocated there from her "home and native land" in order to have improved health and a better, albeit simpler quality of life. Her educational background is in music (BMus '81 - Queen's University, Kingston Ontario) and librarianship (MLS '83 - Dalhousie University, Halifax Nova Scotia). She manages to put her skills to good use in Dominica. She sings in a small vocal ensemble that occasionally performs at charitable functions and church services. She has also taught senior English Literature courses at a local private school and English as a Second Language (ESL) classes to French adults from the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. While she has previously written extensively about Dominica in different media, her current focus is on her blog, Ti Domnik Tales, which highlights many of her adventures and experiences,as well as some of the fascinating people that she has met on this special island.

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  • Hello! thank you for creating such an interesting report of life on this island. Can i ask you if you might know what it might take for a couple to live there on retirement income?

    We speak french somewhat as my mother is french so i think this could be a good choice as to where to live. Also i love organic for many reasons.

    I would love to know more if there is a site to go to. Anyway thank you for all that info.

    best,
    Claudia

  • I had the rare privelige of working in Dominca for 3 weeks and it was there I finally understood the concept of losing one's heart to a place. Dominica is superlative. When God finished creating the world he had a bucket full of scenery left over and He just upended it over Dominica. And to live in this wonderland He created the most wonderful people. It is my fervent wish to return there one day.

  • I am interested in information about retirement in Roseau preferably. Cost of living for 2 people in an apartment of 2bedrooms. Like quiet area. I woulmd appreciate a reply from you. Thanks in advance By the way thank you for helping those who are interested in the island. Roseau seems to be very nice. Be blessed Josie

  • I am sick of Chicago. The arctic winds. Snow piled knee high. Traffic. Shootings. Daylight robberies.....
    I am retired living on a minimum limited SS income with health issues. I am 76.
    This is a long shot. Will Dominica welcome me for a long time retiree. What's the infrastructure...travel, internet, healthcare..
    Any advice is most welcome.
    Thanks.

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